stellou

Sunday, September 23, 2007

candy, not striped like pyjamas

I woke up three times this morning before I finally got out from under the pyjama-striped covers. The sun was out so I read with the window open and my feet on the windowsill. Somewhere down Church Street someone was driving with his windows down so Sunday morning sounded like the Everly Brothers thinking that they’re gonna cry-y.

Last night we broke into the honeymoon fund to honeymoon at Locanda Locatelli. We eat at Locanda Locatelli but we are still one who is unemployed and one who earns minimum wage, so we took the 73 bus all the bitter way to the ass end of Oxford Street. (Is there an ass end of Oxford Street? Is not all of it quite bottomish? I suppose the spot in front of the Selfridges window is not so bad.) There was a girl sitting in front of us who had a bad connection on her mobile so she had to say, again and again, “Wo’?” “You know,” I wanted to say to her, I wanted to tap her on the shoulder and say, “Excuse me, I’m sorry, I couldn’t help but overhear. You know,” I wanted to say, “there is a ‘t’ in there somewhere.”

Tucked away two quiet streets behind the ass end of Oxford Street, we had a corner table and a bread bowl and a glass vase of breadsticks –

I wound my hair round to hold it between my nose and upper lip, I wiggled my new pointy-ended moustache, and I puffed on the breadstick as if it were a cigarette on the finest of silver cigarette holders. You put me in a black dress and gold shoes, you put me in antique Peranakan jewellery, and this is what I do

– we had the corner table and the sommelier was a precise man with sculptural spectacles and a smile for punctuation. “Would you like some wine?” he said, his accent drawing out his i’s, and the smile, a small one but a warm one, was both question and answer.

We had prosecco, of course, and then too much bread – the olive bread, the grilled-onion bread, the garlic? bread, the crisp-topped cheesey bread, and a magic wand of a parmesan breadstick – and then, and we hadn’t even begun, really, Olive said, “J’ai plus faim.” We’d known this was going to happen, we’d known we’d run into trouble with the bountiful bread selection, even if we didn’t follow Laureen’s recommendation. “Go for two bread baskets!!!” she’d e-mailed, as if exclamation marks had been on special that day. “TWO!!!” she’d reiterated. “They are free!”

In between courses I stretched out my arms and rested them on the top of the banquette as if I were Giorgio Locatelli surveying my kingdom. In Giorgio Locatelli’s kingdom, the clouds are handmade gnocchi, delicate and melty. The hills in the distance are chocolate-banana doughnuts dusted in sugar, and passionfruit jellies hang from the trees. I stretched out my arms and rested them casually on the banquette as if to say, “I am pleased,” but really I was making room, rearranging my insides, for more.

7 Comments:

Blogger deborah said...

did you know giorgio locatelli is demonstrating at the bbc good food show in november!?

23 September, 2007 22:02  
Blogger stellou said...

Yaaaa I noticed!! Are you coming? I mean, are you coming and then going? I forget when it is you are supposed to be here.

But Giorgio -- ya, the demonstration. I'm not sure how keen I am to pay to watch him peel asparaguses and make asparagus stock for an hour. The thing is, Olive does it here, for free, and sometimes when the ice cream van goes by playing "O Sole Mio" it is almost like we are in Italy anyway...

23 September, 2007 22:08  
Blogger deborah said...

i dunno. i am still thinking about it. i doubt it will even be an hour of peeling asparagus etc. if it's anything like the sydney good show giorgio will come out like a rock star, with his sous chef behind him, who will to peel said vegetable while giorgio goofballs 'round. he may even ridicule another celebrity cook and stroke his cookbook every five minutes. just like matt moran did.

but i doubt it, giorgio seems much more dedicated. see i've been thinking! :)

what would be good is if they serve gelato AT the demonstration. big scoops of it. i'll have the fig flavour.

i am there from early nov with a little break in france in the second week. hurrah!

23 September, 2007 22:19  
Blogger stellou said...

I am really impressed that you know all of this!! No, I didn't really think it would be an hour of him peeling asparagus... even though, I mean, it could be... funny? Not sure funny is the right word. But maybe if the hall is quiet, and Giorgio is peeling, and every now and again someone in the audience coughs.

I would like to see Giorgio goofball, even though he doesn't seem like the type. Ch. I talk like I know, when the closest I have come to him is watching him walk across the dining room at Locanda Locatelli.

There is a flavour of sorbet on the Locanda Locatelli menu that I would have liked to try. It was passionfruit and apricot or something, I mean, it was something great, surrounded by like four or five other something greats. If I could go to Locanda Locatelli just for the desserts...

Wait.

Can't I?

^_^

23 September, 2007 22:25  
Blogger deborah said...

a dessert course at locanda locatelli - cheese parcels with mirto ice cream. i have no idea what mirto is, but i wanna try!

it's doable, but i must say the rest of the menu sounds so good. melty gnocchi - yes please!

does he sell signed copies of his cookbook in the resto?

23 September, 2007 22:33  
Blogger stellou said...

the postman just pulled up under my window and i really was hoping he was carrying parcels of cheese for me!! (he wasn't.)

mirto sounds like he could be a small (portuguese?) man (a postman?) in a bowler hat. he carries a pocketwatch in his jacket pocket -- all the better to time the ice cream with!

there is in fact a pile of locatelli's cookbooks in the restaurant. don't know if they're for sale (i suppose they could just be propping up a small counter) or if they're signed. i suppose, though, you could try to buy one and then ask him to come out from the kitchen to sign it! then you could bask in the full cheffy glory...

24 September, 2007 10:28  
Blogger deborah said...

parcels of pastry perhaps? this afternoon i'm going to buy tarts for dinner! i can't wait!

i really like your portuguese mailmain. and because i needed to know: mirto is a liqueur of macerated myrtle leaves and berries. well there ya go!

maybe if giorgio takes a swig of mirto while he cooks, he will be more likely to goof around!

26 September, 2007 23:55  

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