Bar Italia for a late lunch Sunday. A barstool by the door, and the paper folded first longways then shortways. A cappuccino, and a panino hot off the grill. When the kitchen brought up my order, the waiters yelled: “Mortadella!” Olivia Newton-John and John Travolta on the big screen in the back. Plus the clink of thick glasses and sturdy crockery behind the bar, and the ring ring ring of the old brass register up front.